Travel

Compared with other former Eastern Bloc economies, Poland is having a pretty good credit crunch. As it prepares for entry into the euro — possibly in 2012 — its government predicts a trend-bucking rise in GDP this year of 1.7 per cent. Krakow is well- placed to ride out the downturn. At a major European road and rail junction, it offers an expressway for the Scandinavian and Baltic states to eastern Europe, and connects Germany to Ukraine.

The corporate seat of numerous international banks and chambers of commerce, Krakow has a buoyant recruitment sector, fuelled by a large student population and economic migrants returning from forays around western Europe.

Pretty and charismatic, Krakow now rivals Prague for visitors. Social life revolves around Rynek Glówny, its vast pedestrianised square — the centrepiece of its historic Old Town (Stare Miasto) — where grand medieval buildings house dozens of pavement cafés and cellar pubs serving the perky local beer Zywiec and live jazz.

For all its timelocked grandeur, Rynek Glówny is also a major WiFi hotspot — which somehow sums up the city: deferential to the past, but always up-to-speed.

Where to stay

In style: Ten minutes walk from the bustling city centre, and perched serenely on the banks of the Vistula River, the Sheraton (Ulica Powisle 7, +48 12 662 1000, sheraton.pl) keeps impressive company: some of the 232 rooms have neighbouring Wawel Castle for an imposing backdrop (but not all, so make discreet enquiries on check-in). Substantial buffet breakfasts are served in the towering, glass-topped atrium; the vodka bar offers 240 flavours.

Handy for the night-time hub of bar-filled Plac Nowy, the four-star Qubus (Ulica Nadwislanska 6, +48 12 374 5100, qubushotel.com) has a must-see rooftop panoramic pool, spa and sauna suite.

On a budget: In the down-at-heel Kazimierz district, Hotel Alef (Swietej Agnieszki 5, +48 12 424 3131, alef.pl) is a rough diamond, re-creating the atmosphere of old Krakow with pre-war décor, an atmospheric ragbag of fine oil paintings, gilt-edged mirrors and collectable bric-a-brac. Diners in the house restaurant feast on Jewish specialities, accompanied by live gypsy music.

Tucked away from the main market square, the Rococco Hotel Saski (Ulica Slawkowska 3, +48 12 421 2855, hotelsaski.com.pl) channels fin-de-siècle Krakow. Down powerful mojitos in the decadent Metropolitan bar, then take the rickety Art Nouveau lift to your characterful room. Simply charming.

Where to eat

In style: Visiting dignitaries are taken to Wierzynek (Rynek Glówny 15, +48 12 424 9600, wierzynek.com.pl), whose upstairs dining room is packed with museum pieces, from clocks to armour. During the Soviet era, this was one of the only upscale restaurants in Krakow, and it is certainly its oldest. Opened in 1364 to feed sovereigns, its fare remains appropriately stately — think saddle of deer in juniper sauce.

A bastion of Polish gastronomic tradition, Pod Aniolami (Ulica Grodzka 35, +48 12 421 3999, podaniolami.pl) serves excellent, sometimes challenging, old fare in a vaulted dining room. Its grilled meat is pickled in a reconstructed beech stove.

On a budget: In Krakow, you can dine out heartily on less than €10 a head. Miód i Wino (Ulica Slawkowska 32, +48 12 422 7495) serves classic Polish noblemen’s fare such as pierogi (ravioli). Its medieval theme accounts for the boar skins draped on tables, walls adorned with crossbows and beer served in flagons.

For a solo bite, Cava (Ulica Nadwislanska 1, +48 12 656 7456) is a lively cocktail and bubbly bar with a nibbling menu offering salamis, cheeses and, for the more jaded palate, snails.

Krakow has been slow to pick up on café culture — Starbucks only hit Warsaw in April — so contemporary places for a quick moccachino are limited. But when exploring the upcoming Podgórze district, refuel at Rekawka (Ulica Brodzinskiego 4b, +48 12 196 2002), a café 
for literary types with battered armchairs, a menu of mixed salads, cakes and strong Fairtrade coffee.

Doing business

Krakowians are steadfastly traditional, often devoutly religious, and mostly impervious to passing trends (when the iPhone launched last year, actors were paid to form fake queues outside shops). A small-c conservative attitude informs locals’ polite but formal business approach.

Before a meeting, always give a business card to every person present. The Polish use handshakes to recognise hierarchy, so those in positions of seniority and women (in that order) should extend their hands first. At the end of negotiations, extending a hand signifies that “talk is over”.

Similarly, when passing cash to taxi drivers or waiting staff, resist saying “Thank you”, which roughly  translates as “Keep the change”, a faux pas that’s surprisingly hard to unpick in front of clients.

Even at low-level negotiations, consider a translator. Don’t rely on the language skills of the Krakowians, whose grasp may only be slightly better than the average Brit’s schoolboy French.

City transport: John Paul II International Airport is ten miles west of the city. You can take a 20- minute taxi ride to the centre or an express train that takes 15 minutes but is a slog from the terminal.

Quintessentially Krakow

Tour
Nowa Huta, a sort of model Communist town, astounds with its vision of living space for the proletarian populous and mixes Renaissance and Soviet-style architecture. Take a guided tour in an original black Volga or a Nysa van to feel like a secret agent.
english.nh.pl,communism.pl

Cafe

Cosy Café Camelot attracts an arty and relaxed crowd. The breakfast is particularly good, so fill up on muesli before you set off to navigate the Old Town. It’s also on everyone’s to do list because of the smoky atmosphere in the cellar, replete with nightly cabaret and live jazz. ul. sw. Tomasza 17, +48 12 423 0638, lochcamelot.art.pl
 
Church
Built in the 14th century in a red-brick Gothic style, the unconventional Mariacki basilica is famed throughout Poland for the trumpet signal that issues on the hour. Visit it for the ornately carved sculptures of its limewood altar and the exquisitely rendered scenes of Mary’s life. Go at evening mass to mingle with worshippers. Rynek Glowny.

History
Just 50km west of Krakow lies Auschwitz-Birkenau, the notorious death camp built by the Nazis. Every distressing detail of the camp has been carefully recorded, making this preserved site and museum an essential, eye-opening experience for all visitors to the region. auschwitz.org.pl

Club
Krakow’s clubs are renowned party spots that attract a varied crowd from vodka-swilling stag parties to discerning tourists on the hunt for fun. Head to Frantic, where DJs play over two floors to a seriously attractive crowd. For those with a taste for drink, dance and debauchery, there’s no better choice.
ul. Szewska 5, +48 12 423 0483, frantic.pl.

Industry
Krakow’s famous salt mines at Wieliczka bring out a childlike fascination in even the most jaded traveller. The golden pot that financed Krakow’s architectural wonders, the salt mines plunge 1,000 feet underground with carved chapels, Madonnas and biblical reliefs surrounded by chandeliers made from salt. You’ll need to take transport from the city centre to get here.

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