Budapest is probably Europe's most photogenic city. Nature has conveniently provided the Danube river to flow through its heart, while man has complemented this by building a distinct half on either side as well as some impressive bridges to link the two.
Pest, located on the plain, is known locally as the socialist side, although it is home to most of the city's bustling bars, cafés, offices and hotels. Buda is far more sedate and, home to some of the most expensive houses, has a reputation for being more conservative. It is home to the parliament, palace and various magnificent squares. In fact, every street seems like a film set.
What adds to Budapest's charm is how dramatic each side appears from the other. From Buda, Pest looks charming, nestled in by the river, which stretches one way to Vienna and the other to the Black Sea. From Pest, Buda simply looks imposing. Pack your camera along with a good appetite.
THE CENTRAL MARKET
Located in a vast three-storey building close to the Liberty Bridge, the Central Market is a great place to investigate what the locals eat and enjoy for two very different reasons.
The first is a ground floor packed with row upon row of butchers' stalls, excellent fruit and vegetables, salami and paprika, of course, and honey and wild mushrooms in season. There's even one stall that sells 15 different types of stuffed strudel.
The second is a section of the upstairs devoted to a string of cafés and bars where one can sit down and eat copiously and inexpensively like a Pesti, which is the name for anyone born in Budapest. Most typical are langos, rounds of fried dough topped with garlic and washed down with a beer.
CAFES
Budapest in the late 19th century saw the emergence of numerous grand cafés that are now recovering their former grandeur after some neglect. The most striking is the New York Café that is now an integral part of the stylish Boscolo Hotel. This has magnificent marble columns and impressive paintings but the interior is somehow too imposing.
I lost my heart to Gerbeaud, close to the Kempinski and Le Meridien hotels, a café that opened in 1858 and combines old-world charm with some delightful old-fashioned cakes and pastries. But, as Pestis take their coffee and cakes seriously, no street corner seems to be without a good café.
RESTAURANTS
Budapest is further distinguished by the fact that while new young chefs are emerging, the long established restaurants still flourish. Nowhere epitomises this more than Gundel (bottom left). Complete with string quartet, in full evening dress, this rather staid institution still carries the flag for fin-de-siècle elegance. A luscious goose liver pâté remains its signature dish.
Alabárdos up in Buda has a location, leading out on to a cobbled square, that would excite any restaurateur and its manager, Béla Juhász, exudes warmth to match.
Back in Pest, Babel and Bock provide the modern counterpart. Babel, close to the Central Market, looks super-cool but has a Magyar menu in the evening that includes bean goulash, duck with paprika and excellent desserts.
Bistro Bock in the Royal Corinthia Hotel, one of the oldest hotels in the city, with a spa of great renown, is the creation of Jozsef Bock, an enterprising wine maker-turned-restaurateur. Here one can enjoy many of Hungary's distinctive new wines and a range of good food to match.
PALINKA
Palinka is the Hungarian name of the clear white, fruit-based spirits that are usually served ice cold at the end of a meal but are often enjoyed by Hungarians as a palate-whetter before the meal.Palinka is symptomatic of how seriously Hungarians take their food and drink. They contend that, while others produce their national spirits from inexpensive ingredients such as barley for whisky, or grain or potatoes for vodka, it's only the Hungarians who use top quality fruit to produce their national spirit. The range is extensive, from apricot to plum, pear, apple and quince and there is no shortage of places to try them, from the well stocked fridges of any restaurant to the stands by the main tourist spots which sell shots of palinka alongside cappuccinos and Coke.
To find out more visit gundel.hu; alabardos.hu; babeldelicate.hu; bockbisztro.hu. BA flies to Budapest up to four times daily from Heathrow and twice daily from Gatwick, Earn up to 1,827 BA Miles. Eligible fares only. Visit ba.com.
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