Istanbul’s restaurants, exciting as they are, would never pass the acid test of a highly successful New York restaurateur I know who believes he can judge whether the service is good simply by looking at the faces of the customers. If they are fixed on each other, deep in conversation and focused on the business in hand, then the service is as it should be. If, however, customers are looking around the room trying to attract the waiter’s attention, then the restaurateur is not doing his job properly.
This simple rule, however, breaks down in Istanbul, where the views from so many restaurants are simply awesome: across the Bosphorus to Asia; down by the water’s edge watching the ships, big and small, heading to or from the Black Sea; or on bustling street corners where this modern city meets
its historic past. I have never been anywhere where my eyes have so consistently wandered from my plate.
Breakfast
One view that is unlikely to be bettered at breakfast is that from the executive club lounge on the 17th floor of The Bosphorus Swissôtel (Bayildim Cad. 2, Maçka, Befliktafl, +90 212 326 1100, swissotel.com) (which also boasts a wonderful Turkish bath in its basement). Croissants, coffee and a window on to the Old City — a great start to a busy day.
Brunch
Lucca (Cevdetpasa Cad. 51/B Bebek, +90 212 257 1255) luccastyle.com) epitomises modernity. Opened six years ago by Cem Mirap who calls his creation a ‘bistronomique’ with some justification, the young of Istanbul flock here for breakfast, lunch and dinner and drinks in between.
Lunch
Bebek, named after a baby-faced soldier with whom a sultan supposedly once fell in love, is a prosperous neighbourhood that’s a 20-minute drive from downtown and provides two contrasting places to entertain Istanbul-style.
Situated on one side of the main street, Bebek Balikci (bebekbalikci.net) is a long established fish restaurant right by the water’s edge (although Starbucks and Caffe Nero are today new neighbours) where the ancient traditions
of engaging hospitality and simply grilled fish are practised by father and son, Ertugrul and Cem Karabulut. And even limited Turkish is no barrier to a successful meal. The day’s fish is laid out over ice in the front window, out of the sun, while the cold mezze come round on trays and include the most delicious taramasalata, aubergine purée, marinated peppers and, of course, hummus.
Drinks
Drinks in Istanbul are as varied as the restaurants, from fruit juices such as freshly squeezed pomegranate to business-clinching cups of Turkish coffee and glasses of tea.
Two places that left a strong impression on me are Pandeli (Misir Carsisi, Eminonu, +90 212 527 3909) and the café in the Istanbul Modern Art Museum separated physically by only a walk across the famous Galata Bridge. Pandeli is on the first floor of the Spice Market, and is composed of a series of cool rooms lined with turquoise tiles. The Modern’s café (+90 212 292 2612, istanbulmodern.org), has a separate entrance from the museum so it is possible to take advantage of its enticing food at any time.
Dinner
Stand in the bar at Mikla (themarmarahotels.com), at the top of the Marmara Pera hotel as sun sets over the Golden Horn. Mikla’s kitchen is run by Mehmet Gürs, who believes in searching out the best Turkish ingredients to incorporate into a lighter style of cooking. Grilled turbot with anchovy-infused olive oil and three cuts of lamb on one plate are culinary highlights. But the memories that will live longest are the views and just how busy the bar still was
long after midnight.
For details of British Airways flights to Istanbul visit ba.com
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