Wedged between excitingly hilly countryside and three excellent beaches, San Sebastian is 90km east of Bilbao. This small city has become a magnet for food and wine lovers over the past decade and its charms, from its seafront, shops and tapas bars to its restaurants, seem only to increase over time. Returning there seemed rather like stepping into a favourite suit — although too much time eating out in San Sebastian might necessitate the purchase of a completely new wardrobe.
Although they originated in the south of Spain, tapas bars have found their ideal home in the cobbled streets of the old part of San Sebastian. A simple map in our hotel listed 33 pintxos, as they are known locally, as well as a couple of restaurants, but there are certainly more than that. While several specialise in certain dishes, such as spider crab, prawns, anchovies or fried tapas, most offer a vast range. There are slices of Spanish omelette, sometimes served between thin slices of baguette, every cut of Spanish ham and lots of prawns, served on a brochette, grilled or sautéed with garlic and olive oil. Eat, drink, then pay as you leave and be impressed by how accurately the barmen keep a tab on all that you have enjoyed.
Bar Ganbara
San Jeronimo 21, +34 943 422 575
It was the lure of Ganbara's speciality, spider crabs, that initially drew us to this crowded bar but sadly they were out of season. After a glass of sherry and a couple of tapas we headed downstairs to the more tranquil restaurant. The restaurant menu is comprehensive, with a long list of fish dishes — hake, cod and bass that are grilled and served for two — as well as some hearty steaks. Our meal included three local specialities: fresh anchovies sautéed with olive oil and garlic; scrambled eggs with wild mushrooms and prawns; and a bowl of restorative menestre de verdura, the thick vegetable soup.
Cocteleria Dickens
Almeda del Boulevard 27, +34 943 427 233, cocteleriadickens.com
Our evening tapas began with a sojourn in a bar that would not look out of place in a chic hotel in London, Paris or New York. The Dickens is wood panelled and full of comfortable leather furniture, and the service is swift and friendly. But this bar's particular claim to fame is that it makes what it believes is the best 'gin tonic' in the world. This is served in a giant, high-stemmed glass goblet, almost big enough to be a bucket, filled with ice cubes. While slices of lemon peel are slipped down the side, the magic ingredient is that further peel is then squeezed over the ice so that the zest deadens any excessive spritz from the tonic. The gin and the tonic are then added, and the glass is handed over. The evening is off to a good start.
Akelarre
Paseo Padre Orcoloaga 56, +34 943 311 209, akelarre.net
San Sebastian has garnered its culinary reputation because while its tapas bars seem to have defied time, many of the chefs in its restaurants have been experimenting, albeit with mixed results.
Our dinner at Akelarre, a three Michelin star restaurant with wonderful views over the Atlantic, included excellent renditions of foie gras, pork cheeks, turbot with almonds and a dish of veal tripe, enlivened with peppers. But the appetisers came in a series of plastic bottles and pots that deliberately mimicked cosmetics packaging and did nothing to stimulate the appetite.
Arzak
Avenida Alcalde Elosegui 273, +34 943 278 465, arzak.info
The combination of modern and traditional was far more successful at Arzak, although its room of 1,300 different spices from around the world bears testimony to a desire to ring the changes. Lobster with potato and copaiba, extracted from a Brazilian tree, and sole with ginger oil and coconut bread were just two examples of Elena Arzak's exciting approach.
British Airways flies to San Sebastian up to ten times a day via Madrid. Visit ba.com
blog comments powered by
