Travel

For hoteliers with good restaurants in the British countryside, the weekend has always been their busiest time. But the hotel's precise location for this vital trade has also determined the value of the business. The closer the hotel is to a major city, so that the getaway for the weekend is no more than a 60- or 90-minute drive, the higher the purchase price, which is why hotels close to London along the M4 fetch higher prices than those in the Southeast.

Today, with more people working at home, the difference in a hotel's business between the rest of the week and the weekend is less marked. Here are four to escape to any time.

CUMBRIA
Gilpin Lodge Country House Hotel, Crook Road, Windermere, 015394 88818, gilpinlodge.co.uk
The Lake District has always been regarded as quintessentially English and perhaps nowhere is more so than Lake Windermere, which Gilpin Lodge conveniently overlooks. The hotel and grounds are run with great charm and warmth by the Cunliffe family and a team of extremely enthusiastic staff. Head chef is Russell Plowman, whose mouthwatering menu includes the classic Lake District first course of a twice-baked goat's cheese soufflé, plus Cumbrian ham and lamb, chicken and duck from Goosnargh in nearby Lancashire, and venison from the forest of Grizedale. And, because this is Cumbria, where there is a passion for all things sweet, the meal really gets under way when the puddings arrive.

HAMPSHIRE
Hotel TerraVina, 174 Woodlands Road, Netley Marsh, New Forest, 023 8029 3784, hotelterravina.co.uk
On the edge of the New Forest, between Southampton and Winchester, TerraVina will appeal just as much to walkers as to wine lovers, and to those who just enjoy staying in a well-run hotel. While the hotel's natural charms are obvious from its location, with the famous ponies grazing quietly nearby, its other attractions emanate from its owners, Gerard and Nina Basset. This year Gerard became the World's Best Sommelier and his wife was formerly a hotel inspector.

There's a fascinating wine list run by Laura Rhys, UK Sommelier of the Year in 2009, and an engaging menu under chef
Alan Haughie. This includes quail with New Forest wild mushrooms, 'spear caught' plaice with balsamic grelot onions and
coconut soufflé with a mango sauce.

WILTSHIRE
Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Bath
Colerne, Chippenham, 01225 742777, lucknampark.co.uk
Located six miles east of Bath among acres of Cotswold countryside, Lucknam Park boasts a distinguished history that predates 1066. Over the past 20 years, under its general manager Harry Murray, it has undergone a rapid transformation that has added a spa, equestrian centre and two very talented chefs in Hywel Jones in the restaurant and Hrishikesh Desai in its more informal brasserie.

While Jones turns his focus to the more luxurious ingredients, Desai stamps his Indian upbringing on to some less expensive dishes. Rillette of chicken comes with a mace chutney, saffron marinated chicken with cumin rice, local lamb with a coconut roulade, and to finish there's a roast pineapple and lime soup.

RUTLAND
Hambleton Hall, Hambleton, Oakham, 01572 756 991, hambletonhall.com
This 17-bedroom hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant is set in lush gardens surrounded by Rutland Water about 35 miles from Nottingham. It has been owned since 1980 by Tim and Stefa Hart and for the past 18 years the kitchens have been in the extremely capable hands of Aaron Patterson, whose repertoire ranges from the relatively simple dishes on his Lunch for Less menu to a more intricate à la carte menu. Highlights of the latter include squid risotto with a cannelloni of chorizo, seabass with fennel and oranges; veal with morel mushrooms, and a passion fruit soufflé.

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